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Producing a single pair of jeans consumes around 7,500 liters (2,000 gallons) of water, from growing raw cotton to finished product, according to the United Nations.
To ensure its blue color, the thread or fabric is repeatedly dunked in huge vats of synthetic indigo dye. After dyeing, the denim is treated and washed with more chemicals to soften or texture it. Getting the faded or "worn in" look requires even more chemical bathing, which uses acids, enzymes, bleach and formaldehyde.
But jeans aren't the only polluters.
"Every season we know that the fashion industry needs to highlight new colors," said Ma Jun, one of China's leading environmentalists, in a phone interview. But, he added, "each time you have a new color you're going to use more, new kinds of chemicals and dye stuffs and pigments and catalysts."
Once they're done, the cheapest way for factories to get rid of unusable, chemical-laden wastewater is to dump it into nearby rivers and lakes.
Not all of the chemicals and solvents used are hazardous, though the World Bank has identified 72 toxic ones that stem solely from textile dyeing. Once in waterways, they accumulate to the point where light is prevented from penetrating the surface, reducing plants' ability to photosynthesize. This lowers oxygen levels in the water, killing aquatic plants and animals.