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Most of the literature on innovation develops in the context of technology, where the degree of radical or incremental change in terms of functionality of the product can be evaluated according to objective and predictable models. In creative industries, a valuable source of competitive advantage lies in aesthetic innovation. In the world of fashion in particular, innovation is reflected in the way and the intensity with which styles change, so it is much more difficult to determine what is truly new. Consequently, over time, fashion critics have taken a key role in evaluating the quantity and quality of innovation introduced into the fashion market, since their experience allows them to evaluate the contribution of a specific designer in the context of what preceded him/her and what other stylists do. Each season, fashion critics examine the new collections that leading fashion designers present, evaluating what is authentically original versus what is simply reworked, thus playing a fundamental role as gatekeepers of taste within the market.

This is the phenomenon on which we have focused our attention. We studied the patterns of innovation and the influence exerted on them by opinion leaders in printed media in an industry where innovation is least codified in terms of the dynamics of development and launch of new products. In this research paper we document how stylistic innovation, with respect to styles that major fashion brands introduce each season, is influenced by the specific exogenous factor of the critical assessments made on the past work of a given designer.