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Tisci watched the broadcast from Italy, where he was visiting his 92-year-old mother for the first time this year. The designer spoke of his admiration for his mother, who raised him and his eight sisters as a single mother. “I grew up seeing femininity as determination,” he said.
The pure womenswear focus of this collection suggests a switch in direction at Burberry, which has long championed gender fluidity. Tisci’s predecessor, Christopher Bailey, staged a catwalk show with clothes for men and women inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando five years ago. Tisci insisted on Wednesday that “fluidity and not being exclusive about gender is still part of who I am”, and said his intention was not to resurrect barriers but rather to redress what he sees as a gender imbalance at the house.
“When I arrived here, most of the business was about selling to women, but the icons of the brand – the trench, the car coat, the story of Thomas Burberry – were all male. So I want to make Burberry more feminine.”
Sequined cocktail dresses and sleek clutch bags were aimed squarely at post-lockdown lifestyles, with not a sweatpant in sight. There was plenty of outerwear, the bread and butter of Burberry’s business, but these were coats aimed at nights on the town rather than walks in the park: think gold lamé trenchcoats, and white chubbies fringed with exaggerated faux-mink pelts.
Tisci is not raring to return to the industry’s pre-Covid obsession with blockbuster fashion shows. “I like that now I can show a collection when it’s ready and when the consumer is ready to see it. There is more respect for creativity, instead of everything being run on a kind of industrial schedule. I actually really like working like this. And I love that everybody watches the show the same way, on the same level, with the same access – journalists, consumers, everybody.
“My dream would be that when we go back to doing shows, we can be in an open space with everyone invited.”
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