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The work spans a period of 10 years, from 1998 to 2008, and examines every season's collections (spring/summer and fall/winter) developed across that timespan by all prêt-à-porter brands present in the official fashion show calendars provided by the National Chamber of Fashion in Milan and the Fedération Française de la Couture et du Prêt-à-porter in Paris. The result is a sample made of 42 companies, 22 present on Milanese catwalks and 20 on the Parisian ones. Of great interest are the results that emerged from the analysis of their innovative behaviors, described in the article "Changing Style in Style-Changing Industries. The Role of Critics as Gatekeepers in High-End Fashion," published in the special issue of Advances in Strategic Management titled "Style in Strategy and Strategy of Style: Theoretical Developments, Empirical Results, and Research Agenda."

For each of the fashion brands considered, all the items for each collection were analyzed as part of their respective communication campaigns. Using a grid of five parameters (cut, color, length, fabric, decoration) each garment was coded and compared with a similar garment proposed in the previous season, in order to build an innovation index for each type of product, collection, and brand. The average therefore makes it possible to identify an overall innovation index per season with reference to each single brand. At the same time, all the reviews produced downstream of fashion shows by opinion leaders in international media considered particularly authoritative sources (International Herald Tribune, The New York Times, WWD, Style.com) were collected and classified to obtain a synthetic index of evaluation for each collection.